Tomar

I had been to Tomar to see the main attraction, the Knights Templar compound and thought it was a cute town. I heard it had a Jewish synagogue and I wanted to see it, as well as check out the town some more. As I came into town on off of this mountain road, I followed the signs for the biblioteca. I parked there and went inside. I needed the bathroom and the internet. Both were nice, they let me use a computer to check my email, there were lots of computers, a wonderfully light filled space with comfortable furniture. There was a high school across the street and lots of kids around. From there I walked into town and got a map and directions at the tourist office. I had a picnic lunch in a wonderful park and walked to the synagogue. It was interesting and depressing. The fifteenth century pillars are there, and the acoustics are interesting but the rest was mostly sad. It was dirty and unattractive with Judaica scattered, maps of Israel, headstones from different parts of Portugal with Hebrew lettering. If I hadn't just been in a fifteenth century church, that looked much the same, I would say Anti Semitism, but it seems to me Portugal has so much history and not so much money. So many places are crumbling and not presented well. Yet it was interesting to visit and Tomar is a charming town.

The good, bad and the beautiful

Walked across the pedestrian bridge, over the River Mondego, to the other side of Coimbra. saw Portugal Pequinitos, a child size representation of Portugal. It was disconcerting. Things out of scale. Boring displays with dolls and produce under glass. Portugal with castles showing a tower from one, a turret from another and a door from another, all in one building. They also had typical houses from each region, not tall enough for adults but surely a 5 or 6 year olds delightful. If not, give it a miss.

Then I drove to Bucaco, the site of a forest, including Sequoias, and a palace.

I found the model for the pergola I would like in my Napa backyard.

I sat under a tree and had a picnic lunch and planned my way out. I choose a mountain road with Tomar as a goal tonight or in the morning. This mountain road was beautiful, twisty, and almost empty. It took me three hours to drive about 60 kms. The highlight was Penacova, at the top. I stopped for coffee and a pastry. The pastry was wonderful. I took a box home. Down and around the mountain for another hour, not it is almost dark. I'm getting tired and hungry, nothing for kms, small towns, beautiful vistas, no hotels. Arrive in Castanheira de Pera, warm, cute pensao, 30 euros, a walk around town and Tomar tomorrow.

How to make a librarian happy?

The things that excite a librarian! I went to the University in Coimbra to see the famous library, Baroque Library, Biblioteca Joanina, Biblioteca Geral, three names, all one library. It was magnificent. They only let a dozen or so people in each 1/2 hour. There were 6 of us in my time slot. I asked the docent questions, like how do you get to the second floor with a balcony around it. Well, I was the only one left and he took me upstairs and took out a volume from 1523! I touched it, he said I could photograph it but I didn't. An almost 5oo year old book, the bindings were deteriorating but the paper was in good shape. He showed me how the ladders were hidden in the wall between the shelves. Honor, Virtue, Fame and Fortune were in one ceiling mural, Fortune had two faces that he pointed out to me. Asian designs on the ends of the shelves.

It was a quiet day here, a national holiday.

Beautiful town and surroundings, very typical Portuguese, wonderful views, accomodating, places for people to walk and talk, and also crumbling tile benches and persistent grafitti. Old and new side by side .

Coimbra

Arrived here about 4 pm, parked by Hotel Dona Ines and took a walk. Adorable, quaint, charming,warm and friendly. Hotel Dona Ines is a few blocks from the center of town. I have a river view room vista rio. Took Filipa's suggestion at reception and had dinner at Taverna de parque, the best salmon dinner I've had here yet. The veggies were crisp and flavorful, salmon cooked perfectly, choc cake desert, too good. The wine 1/2 bottle for 7.50Eeuros cost more than the salmon 6 euros and was yummy. A tipsy walk home, back to the hotel, in 65 weather. On to discover the town tomorrow, famous library at the University.