Tomar

I had been to Tomar to see the main attraction, the Knights Templar compound and thought it was a cute town. I heard it had a Jewish synagogue and I wanted to see it, as well as check out the town some more. As I came into town on off of this mountain road, I followed the signs for the biblioteca. I parked there and went inside. I needed the bathroom and the internet. Both were nice, they let me use a computer to check my email, there were lots of computers, a wonderfully light filled space with comfortable furniture. There was a high school across the street and lots of kids around. From there I walked into town and got a map and directions at the tourist office. I had a picnic lunch in a wonderful park and walked to the synagogue. It was interesting and depressing. The fifteenth century pillars are there, and the acoustics are interesting but the rest was mostly sad. It was dirty and unattractive with Judaica scattered, maps of Israel, headstones from different parts of Portugal with Hebrew lettering. If I hadn't just been in a fifteenth century church, that looked much the same, I would say Anti Semitism, but it seems to me Portugal has so much history and not so much money. So many places are crumbling and not presented well. Yet it was interesting to visit and Tomar is a charming town.

The good, bad and the beautiful

Walked across the pedestrian bridge, over the River Mondego, to the other side of Coimbra. saw Portugal Pequinitos, a child size representation of Portugal. It was disconcerting. Things out of scale. Boring displays with dolls and produce under glass. Portugal with castles showing a tower from one, a turret from another and a door from another, all in one building. They also had typical houses from each region, not tall enough for adults but surely a 5 or 6 year olds delightful. If not, give it a miss.

Then I drove to Bucaco, the site of a forest, including Sequoias, and a palace.

I found the model for the pergola I would like in my Napa backyard.

I sat under a tree and had a picnic lunch and planned my way out. I choose a mountain road with Tomar as a goal tonight or in the morning. This mountain road was beautiful, twisty, and almost empty. It took me three hours to drive about 60 kms. The highlight was Penacova, at the top. I stopped for coffee and a pastry. The pastry was wonderful. I took a box home. Down and around the mountain for another hour, not it is almost dark. I'm getting tired and hungry, nothing for kms, small towns, beautiful vistas, no hotels. Arrive in Castanheira de Pera, warm, cute pensao, 30 euros, a walk around town and Tomar tomorrow.

How to make a librarian happy?

The things that excite a librarian! I went to the University in Coimbra to see the famous library, Baroque Library, Biblioteca Joanina, Biblioteca Geral, three names, all one library. It was magnificent. They only let a dozen or so people in each 1/2 hour. There were 6 of us in my time slot. I asked the docent questions, like how do you get to the second floor with a balcony around it. Well, I was the only one left and he took me upstairs and took out a volume from 1523! I touched it, he said I could photograph it but I didn't. An almost 5oo year old book, the bindings were deteriorating but the paper was in good shape. He showed me how the ladders were hidden in the wall between the shelves. Honor, Virtue, Fame and Fortune were in one ceiling mural, Fortune had two faces that he pointed out to me. Asian designs on the ends of the shelves.

It was a quiet day here, a national holiday.

Beautiful town and surroundings, very typical Portuguese, wonderful views, accomodating, places for people to walk and talk, and also crumbling tile benches and persistent grafitti. Old and new side by side .

Coimbra

Arrived here about 4 pm, parked by Hotel Dona Ines and took a walk. Adorable, quaint, charming,warm and friendly. Hotel Dona Ines is a few blocks from the center of town. I have a river view room vista rio. Took Filipa's suggestion at reception and had dinner at Taverna de parque, the best salmon dinner I've had here yet. The veggies were crisp and flavorful, salmon cooked perfectly, choc cake desert, too good. The wine 1/2 bottle for 7.50Eeuros cost more than the salmon 6 euros and was yummy. A tipsy walk home, back to the hotel, in 65 weather. On to discover the town tomorrow, famous library at the University.

Work! St. Dominic's International School

Portugal continues to be delightful. The weather has been magnificent, much like southern California. It feels a lot like California still, without the traffic and frantic pace. We have had a bit of rain and the ocean gets very dramatic. It is sunny and a bit chilly today. I have another week off for Carnival next week. I will tour in the north again. I have found a house/dog sitter so I can leave without worrying.
Norm asked about my job and I realized I hadn’t said much. I am learning a lot. The International Baccalaureate (IB) program has many acronyms to get used to. There is much more emphasis on thinking and metacognition. There is not much emphasis on testing, thank goodness. It still makes no sense and costs ridiculous amounts of money to test as we do in California. Here there are tests to culminate the programs, MYP and IB, but very little testing otherwise. That puts a lot of pressure on the final tests. But the tests are only half of the criterion. They also write an “extended essay” and a Theory of Knowledge (TOK) essay. All in all, I love the emphasis on thinking and international mindedness. It is also understood that not everyone will complete the IB diploma, although most do.
So, my job, I teach two English classes, one Year 7 (our grade 6) and one Year 8 (our grade 7). I am enjoying the teaching, again, a lot to learn, assessment criterion and curriculum. The kids are great for the most part. There is always one or two… They are eager to learn. The difference I have found with teaching rich versus poor kids is that these kids have had success and embrace learning. Some of the poor kids I’ve taught have given up by this time. There is more of a drive to succeed here, also partly because of the cost, I imagine.
My library is too small, old and very dated. The circulation system is antiquated and needs a lot of work. I have asked for it to be replaced at the cost of 10,000 Euros. We will see. The collection is very dated, I am weeding many books that haven’t been checked out in 10 years. I’m having fun updating the fiction with my favorites. I have implemented a lot of things I used at Century High School. I’ve started a Graphic Novel collection. I have a Library Advisory Board and library newsletter. Even thought the student population is only 350 students, there is plenty to do. As always, I don’t stop once I walk in the door. There is always something to do, questions to answer, information to find. I do get an hour for lunch and I take it! They even pay for my lunch.
My library assistant, Fatima, is wonderful. Conceicao also works there and is hard working and positive. I have a two year contract but I can see staying longer. I may even buy a house!
I am posting pictures here.

Touring

Happy New Year. Four months in Portugal and all is well. I have been enjoying three weeks off and doing some more touring. My niece, Jessica, came for a visit. After the first two days of rain, it was beautiful. We toured around here and in the Alentejo, area south of here. Then I took a trip a bit north of here. It was good to see the variety. Pine forests meet the sea, grottos, valleys. Beautiful. Here are a few pictures.

Looks are Deceiving

I know none of us really sees ourselves as others do. I was wondering, as I went for a walk today, what people saw when they looked at me. I had on jeans and my white T shirt from Death Valley, with desert flowers. Over that was my light blue denim work shirt, the one with a small row of lighthouses and Out Banks lighthouses stitched underneath. My earrings were lapis with shekel coins. New Balance walking shoes. My hair is wild, what I used to call Berkeley hippie, and it's back in style but with better hair products. Does that outfit on me scream American. I know how American it is but people here have English logos and slogans on a lot of their clothes. Of course when I am walking both Curly and Jack in his stroller (pram, here)they don't know what to think.

I mentioned at lunch the other day how restful it was not to speak the language. Conversations are going on around me and I have no idea what they are saying. Ramona, a work friend, responded that she feels alienated. I may feel that way eventually but not now. For now it is all a puzzle, trying to read the simple signs and messages on billboards and bus stops. Trying to understand how what people are saying matches any words I know.

I was walking Curly tonight and the invisibility factor kicked in, that is a middle age woman,walking past a group of teenagers. I often feel invisible, don't know the impact my presence makes, (some of you are chuckling) but it's true. I like to think I blend in. Light rain tonight, a delightful walk and pounding surf.